I found my favorite corner of the Smokies: Cataloochee, a sun-filled, grass-covered valley with a meandering river full of trout, tucked away in a remote corner of the otherwise bustling park (and a harrowing drive to ensure that remoteness). We lazed on the moss, stalking fish, salamanders, and crawfish, surrounded by rhododendron, wildflowers, butterflies, budding trees, and at one point elk 😳.